learning with the sea

The process of my learning at sea was not recorded in a very conscious way in my memory. It's like walking for the first time. We hardly remember this exact moment.

When I realized, it seemed that I had always been among the waves, and of course, taking “broths”, it was commonplace. The most obvious analogy is to feel like a rag inside a washing machine.

But a moment became indelible in my mind: The first time I "cut" a wave. It was a magical moment. Without a doubt, one of the most wonderful sensations in the universe.

It kind of happened by chance, at the time I was still using a Styrofoam board. I on the wave always descended straight towards the beach, being driven by that roll of white foam that forms as soon as the ripple reaches its peak and breaks as if exploding.

Being driven by the foam is already tremendous fun, but by sliding diagonally across the wall of water as it breaks right behind your body, that is; "Cutting" the wave...

It takes you to a new level, where you can take advantage of the full potential of the wave energy, and travel much greater distances and for longer. A unique experience that every human being should be able to have.

All photos on this blog are made by me with a smartphone